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Azerbaijan embroidery, c 1700, Late Safavid Period. Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 295-1884 |
This textile is made from plain weave cotton, decorated with silk embroidery in cross-stitch. The silk embroidery threads come in black, white, yellow (some faded to beige), green, red, and shades of blue ranging from mid to light. The main design was created by dyeing the ground fabric with indigo using a resist-dyeing technique, which blocks certain areas from absorbing dye. The ground fabric is black and has been pieced, cut, and rejoined, which has disrupted the original design. The textile includes several layers: a facing of bias-cut plain weave silk in dark blue, a backing of plain weave glazed cotton in green, and traces of bronze-coloured felt. This felt may be the remains of an original woollen backing or a felted interlining. So, the ground (background) is black cotton. The dark blue silk is an additional facing layer over the ground fabric. The original design featured a central red quatrefoil (four-petaled shape), outlined in white, with red and blue details. Surrounding this center are red rectangular blocks and large yellow and red lozenges, arranged symmetrically. These shapes are filled with stylized floral and geometric motifs. At each end, there is a red palmette (palm-like form). The border pattern consists of alternating swastikas within octagons and pointed hooked "garmagly" motifs. It belongs to Group 1, sub-group 2 as defined by Jennifer Wearden in her article “Azerbaijanian Embroideries: A Synthesis of Contrasts” (Hali 59, October 1991, pp. 102-111). Textiles in this category are characterized by cross stitch embroidery using a dark, strong color palette and feature cartouche-like compartments surrounding a central medallion—features clearly visible in this piece. The museum estimates the textile’s age to be between 1670 and 1700.
Height: 1265 mm Based on the design, the original height was likely at least 1050 mm (105 cm).
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